January 4, 5:00 p.m. - Agra

So, it seems I am having a love-hate relationhip with this country. This day it' hate, so I decided it's best not to visit the Taj when I am in a pissy mood, so tomorrow is the big day! Ok, so just a second to vent about the things I hate, then we can move on: 1. beggers - these aren't your average beggers who stick out their can and let you pass, these are kids who grab at your clothes, skin, purse and bags. These are beggers who pinch you and spit at you if you don't give you money and continue to do so for blocks! I am not a cold-hearted bitch, but it's kind of scary at times when kids are trying to climb into your cab. 2. pushing - the pushing NEVER stops. There could be four feet on either side of me and a group would still push me down to get past me. This seems to only be ok because I am a "westerner", if I try to even defend myself, I get yelled at! It's just rude! 3. trash - I thought I had prepared myself for the trash, but it's unbelievable until you see it. Agra, the city with the Taj Mahal, seems to be the worst. It is actually very sad that none of the money spent on the tourist attractions and on nuclear bombs seems to find it's way to the people who need it most. 4. being a vegetarian!!! - I could never do it! I need my meat! Oddly though, the thing I am craving mst is a nice crisp salad (maybe with steak strips or fried chicken on top!) since we can't eat anything that needs to be rinsed off. With no frozen lean cuisines, this is more stuff than you think!

OK, all that being said, yesterday was a love India day. Friday night we went to a Bollywood film in the most famous theater in the area, the Taj Mandir. The inside of the theater was an attraction in and of itself. It was some of the most beautiful art decco architechture I have ever seen. And, even though we couldn't understand a word of the movie,it was pretty straightforward and highly amusing. Plus, the audience's vivid reactions were enough to tell us what was going on.

Yesterday was our only full day in Jauipur, so I bit the bullet and booked a city tour. It was fantastic. We got to all the sites, with a guided tour and in a nice comfy bus. We stopped at more forts and palaces and had this amazing view of the city. We also stopped at an observatory that had all the instruments made of stone, from more than 200 years ago. The world's biggest sundial was scariy accurate. It was probably my favorite place and I kind of think I should be an astronomer when I grow up (except that I think NASA is complete shit). In addition to the world's biggest sundial, yesterday we also saw the world's largest silver item (a big pot used to transport Ganges water) and the world's biggest canon (a big cannon). The pink city is very pretty and there was so much to do I am glad we did the 9 hour tour.

OH! Sidenote, no elephant. I read this awful brochure about how horribly the elephanst in Jaipur are treated, basically denied water and tons of foot problems and poked with hot sticks. I just couldn't get on an elephant. Maybe I will come back and volunteer at the org. that helps the Jaipur elephants... I wonder if they have a Southern California chapter.

Finally, Saturday night we went to an Indian wedding. To be honest, I was a little disappointed. I thought it would be a grand affair, but Minesh's was definitely better. Fake Indians know how to rock it!

I know I may sound bitter and miserable, but I am really having a great time. I just have these few hours where I want to get on the next plane out of here, but then I am usually ok. And, I am not alone, even the most seasoned travellers in the group seem to think 2 weeks is the right amount in India. I think for my next vacation, to cebratemy graduation, I am going somewhere that is a proper vacation, with no work involved... New Zealand anyone?!

Anyway, tomorrow will be better, headed to the Taj Mahal and the Baby Taj, the reason you come here. I have heard from people who went earlier that it's not a letdown, so I think it will be an excellent day.

Yeah, I think that's all. Hope everyone is having a great New Year and have fun going back to work!! :)

Namaste
amy