January 4, 5:00 p.m. - Agra

So, it seems I am having a love-hate relationhip with this country. This day it' hate, so I decided it's best not to visit the Taj when I am in a pissy mood, so tomorrow is the big day! Ok, so just a second to vent about the things I hate, then we can move on: 1. beggers - these aren't your average beggers who stick out their can and let you pass, these are kids who grab at your clothes, skin, purse and bags. These are beggers who pinch you and spit at you if you don't give you money and continue to do so for blocks! I am not a cold-hearted bitch, but it's kind of scary at times when kids are trying to climb into your cab. 2. pushing - the pushing NEVER stops. There could be four feet on either side of me and a group would still push me down to get past me. This seems to only be ok because I am a "westerner", if I try to even defend myself, I get yelled at! It's just rude! 3. trash - I thought I had prepared myself for the trash, but it's unbelievable until you see it. Agra, the city with the Taj Mahal, seems to be the worst. It is actually very sad that none of the money spent on the tourist attractions and on nuclear bombs seems to find it's way to the people who need it most. 4. being a vegetarian!!! - I could never do it! I need my meat! Oddly though, the thing I am craving mst is a nice crisp salad (maybe with steak strips or fried chicken on top!) since we can't eat anything that needs to be rinsed off. With no frozen lean cuisines, this is more stuff than you think!

OK, all that being said, yesterday was a love India day. Friday night we went to a Bollywood film in the most famous theater in the area, the Taj Mandir. The inside of the theater was an attraction in and of itself. It was some of the most beautiful art decco architechture I have ever seen. And, even though we couldn't understand a word of the movie,it was pretty straightforward and highly amusing. Plus, the audience's vivid reactions were enough to tell us what was going on.

Yesterday was our only full day in Jauipur, so I bit the bullet and booked a city tour. It was fantastic. We got to all the sites, with a guided tour and in a nice comfy bus. We stopped at more forts and palaces and had this amazing view of the city. We also stopped at an observatory that had all the instruments made of stone, from more than 200 years ago. The world's biggest sundial was scariy accurate. It was probably my favorite place and I kind of think I should be an astronomer when I grow up (except that I think NASA is complete shit). In addition to the world's biggest sundial, yesterday we also saw the world's largest silver item (a big pot used to transport Ganges water) and the world's biggest canon (a big cannon). The pink city is very pretty and there was so much to do I am glad we did the 9 hour tour.

OH! Sidenote, no elephant. I read this awful brochure about how horribly the elephanst in Jaipur are treated, basically denied water and tons of foot problems and poked with hot sticks. I just couldn't get on an elephant. Maybe I will come back and volunteer at the org. that helps the Jaipur elephants... I wonder if they have a Southern California chapter.

Finally, Saturday night we went to an Indian wedding. To be honest, I was a little disappointed. I thought it would be a grand affair, but Minesh's was definitely better. Fake Indians know how to rock it!

I know I may sound bitter and miserable, but I am really having a great time. I just have these few hours where I want to get on the next plane out of here, but then I am usually ok. And, I am not alone, even the most seasoned travellers in the group seem to think 2 weeks is the right amount in India. I think for my next vacation, to cebratemy graduation, I am going somewhere that is a proper vacation, with no work involved... New Zealand anyone?!

Anyway, tomorrow will be better, headed to the Taj Mahal and the Baby Taj, the reason you come here. I have heard from people who went earlier that it's not a letdown, so I think it will be an excellent day.

Yeah, I think that's all. Hope everyone is having a great New Year and have fun going back to work!! :)

Namaste
amy

January 1, 1:45 p.m. - Pushkar

Happy New Year! It should be right about midnight in California, I hope you all are having a blast! My New Year was definitely one of my all-time favorites. We went out to this farm where they had set up a big tent with a DJ, homemade food, bonfires and firworks (which were NOT safe and sane, defintely scary ones you see in Santa Ana!) The party was about 5 km (damn American public schools for not teaching me how to properly convert!) out of the dry town of Pushkar, so we definitely partook in some alcoholic beverages. Vodka and Limcas (the BEST soda I have ever tatsed, makes Sprite look like a joke!) were only 50 ruppes, which works out to about $1, best deal yet! We drank and danced until 1 a.m. with these gypsy kids (I know I even had fun with kids, 2009 is starting off very strange!) and cheesy Western Music like the a Backstreet Boys and Ace of Base and a dance remix of California Dreamin. So fun. Then we crammed in a bus while an Indian tourguide from an Intrepid group butchered Oasis' Wonderwall...ten times! It was pretty much an excellent night.

So, now we are wandering around Pushkar (after missing the sunrise walk to the temple. Seriously, sunrise on New Years' day?! NOT gonna happen) and I have to take back everything I said about shopping. This market is excellent and has some of the most interesting stuff we've seen so far. Purses and silk tops and dresses...I went a little crazy in the shopping department! I was going to ship stuff buck but to have it arrive in less than a month was going to cost me like $40! So, I bought an extra tote bag for 40 rupees and will just tote it arund instead.

This location is great. In the center is a holy lake where Hindus believe Brahma, the god of creation, dropped a lotus flower in battle and from the flower sprang the lake. People come from all over the world to bathe in the lake, which is an amazing sight. If you can get past the fact that the lake is disgusing, it's all very beautiful to watch these people, completely uninhibited cleanse their souls. Tonight we are going for a sunset walk (much more my style) to the temple of Brahma's scorned wife, she was a little pissed that he married someone else when she was late to a gathering. Being on time is critical, apparently! So, the walk should be lovely.

Tomorrow morning we leave for Jaipur, the pink city, which is supposed to be one of the main highlights. I am looking forward to an elephant ride out to a remote temple.

Everyone who gave me their addresses, I sent postcards, but I will probably beat them home.

Thanks to everyone for the comments!

BFF Sara - you should defnitely come to India! You can cut a few stops out, though, and I would recommend spluring (relative to India) on nicer hotels which guarantee hot water!

That's all for now. Hope everyone had a great New Year celebration, or you had an excellent sleep if you hit the hay early!

Namaste!
amy