Sunday, January 4, 2009

January 4, 5:00 p.m. - Agra

So, it seems I am having a love-hate relationhip with this country. This day it' hate, so I decided it's best not to visit the Taj when I am in a pissy mood, so tomorrow is the big day! Ok, so just a second to vent about the things I hate, then we can move on: 1. beggers - these aren't your average beggers who stick out their can and let you pass, these are kids who grab at your clothes, skin, purse and bags. These are beggers who pinch you and spit at you if you don't give you money and continue to do so for blocks! I am not a cold-hearted bitch, but it's kind of scary at times when kids are trying to climb into your cab. 2. pushing - the pushing NEVER stops. There could be four feet on either side of me and a group would still push me down to get past me. This seems to only be ok because I am a "westerner", if I try to even defend myself, I get yelled at! It's just rude! 3. trash - I thought I had prepared myself for the trash, but it's unbelievable until you see it. Agra, the city with the Taj Mahal, seems to be the worst. It is actually very sad that none of the money spent on the tourist attractions and on nuclear bombs seems to find it's way to the people who need it most. 4. being a vegetarian!!! - I could never do it! I need my meat! Oddly though, the thing I am craving mst is a nice crisp salad (maybe with steak strips or fried chicken on top!) since we can't eat anything that needs to be rinsed off. With no frozen lean cuisines, this is more stuff than you think!

OK, all that being said, yesterday was a love India day. Friday night we went to a Bollywood film in the most famous theater in the area, the Taj Mandir. The inside of the theater was an attraction in and of itself. It was some of the most beautiful art decco architechture I have ever seen. And, even though we couldn't understand a word of the movie,it was pretty straightforward and highly amusing. Plus, the audience's vivid reactions were enough to tell us what was going on.

Yesterday was our only full day in Jauipur, so I bit the bullet and booked a city tour. It was fantastic. We got to all the sites, with a guided tour and in a nice comfy bus. We stopped at more forts and palaces and had this amazing view of the city. We also stopped at an observatory that had all the instruments made of stone, from more than 200 years ago. The world's biggest sundial was scariy accurate. It was probably my favorite place and I kind of think I should be an astronomer when I grow up (except that I think NASA is complete shit). In addition to the world's biggest sundial, yesterday we also saw the world's largest silver item (a big pot used to transport Ganges water) and the world's biggest canon (a big cannon). The pink city is very pretty and there was so much to do I am glad we did the 9 hour tour.

OH! Sidenote, no elephant. I read this awful brochure about how horribly the elephanst in Jaipur are treated, basically denied water and tons of foot problems and poked with hot sticks. I just couldn't get on an elephant. Maybe I will come back and volunteer at the org. that helps the Jaipur elephants... I wonder if they have a Southern California chapter.

Finally, Saturday night we went to an Indian wedding. To be honest, I was a little disappointed. I thought it would be a grand affair, but Minesh's was definitely better. Fake Indians know how to rock it!

I know I may sound bitter and miserable, but I am really having a great time. I just have these few hours where I want to get on the next plane out of here, but then I am usually ok. And, I am not alone, even the most seasoned travellers in the group seem to think 2 weeks is the right amount in India. I think for my next vacation, to cebratemy graduation, I am going somewhere that is a proper vacation, with no work involved... New Zealand anyone?!

Anyway, tomorrow will be better, headed to the Taj Mahal and the Baby Taj, the reason you come here. I have heard from people who went earlier that it's not a letdown, so I think it will be an excellent day.

Yeah, I think that's all. Hope everyone is having a great New Year and have fun going back to work!! :)

Namaste
amy

Thursday, January 1, 2009

January 1, 1:45 p.m. - Pushkar

Happy New Year! It should be right about midnight in California, I hope you all are having a blast! My New Year was definitely one of my all-time favorites. We went out to this farm where they had set up a big tent with a DJ, homemade food, bonfires and firworks (which were NOT safe and sane, defintely scary ones you see in Santa Ana!) The party was about 5 km (damn American public schools for not teaching me how to properly convert!) out of the dry town of Pushkar, so we definitely partook in some alcoholic beverages. Vodka and Limcas (the BEST soda I have ever tatsed, makes Sprite look like a joke!) were only 50 ruppes, which works out to about $1, best deal yet! We drank and danced until 1 a.m. with these gypsy kids (I know I even had fun with kids, 2009 is starting off very strange!) and cheesy Western Music like the a Backstreet Boys and Ace of Base and a dance remix of California Dreamin. So fun. Then we crammed in a bus while an Indian tourguide from an Intrepid group butchered Oasis' Wonderwall...ten times! It was pretty much an excellent night.

So, now we are wandering around Pushkar (after missing the sunrise walk to the temple. Seriously, sunrise on New Years' day?! NOT gonna happen) and I have to take back everything I said about shopping. This market is excellent and has some of the most interesting stuff we've seen so far. Purses and silk tops and dresses...I went a little crazy in the shopping department! I was going to ship stuff buck but to have it arrive in less than a month was going to cost me like $40! So, I bought an extra tote bag for 40 rupees and will just tote it arund instead.

This location is great. In the center is a holy lake where Hindus believe Brahma, the god of creation, dropped a lotus flower in battle and from the flower sprang the lake. People come from all over the world to bathe in the lake, which is an amazing sight. If you can get past the fact that the lake is disgusing, it's all very beautiful to watch these people, completely uninhibited cleanse their souls. Tonight we are going for a sunset walk (much more my style) to the temple of Brahma's scorned wife, she was a little pissed that he married someone else when she was late to a gathering. Being on time is critical, apparently! So, the walk should be lovely.

Tomorrow morning we leave for Jaipur, the pink city, which is supposed to be one of the main highlights. I am looking forward to an elephant ride out to a remote temple.

Everyone who gave me their addresses, I sent postcards, but I will probably beat them home.

Thanks to everyone for the comments!

BFF Sara - you should defnitely come to India! You can cut a few stops out, though, and I would recommend spluring (relative to India) on nicer hotels which guarantee hot water!

That's all for now. Hope everyone had a great New Year celebration, or you had an excellent sleep if you hit the hay early!

Namaste!
amy

Tuesday, December 30, 2008

December 30, 2:45 p.m. - Udaipur

Ok, so know I missed a whole country but, honestly, Jodhpur sucked. It was actually painful to breathe the air, so we (the Aussies and I) rarely left the confines of our hotel balcony, which was far enough out of town that I didn't inhale a gallon of gasoline. We did visit an awesome omelet man on the side of the road, Vicky, and met a cool couple couple from Europe. Then we headed to the obligatory fort and memorial, then back to the hotel for Pizza Hut! I know, but after a week straight of Indian food, a cheesy pizza starts to sound pretty good. So that's all there is about Jodhpur.

If someone asked me what my favorite thing about India is, I would definitely say the colors. There are colors everywhere...houses, food, clothes, birds... it's nothing like the US. Yesterday, we were on a bus from Jodhpur to Udaipur and we were driving through these desolate farmlands and the women working in the fields had the most beautiful, brightly colored saris on. It's like that all over, just when you think something is going to blend in with the barren desert, a bright blue rooftop with a green door grabs your eye. It's really fun.

Saris are in the category of things that I really want to buy but WTF would I do with it? I can't wear a Sari! In the same vein, it's amazing how no matter where you travel,they seem to be selling the same crap. Sure,I bought an imitation Pashmina, but it's pretty annoying seeing them at every shop. I am realizing how much crap I don't need to buy, which is nice! Now, my money is going to food.

So, now we're in Udaipur, which is apparently the most romantic city in India. I spent most of the day alone (which is fitting since I love myself!) and went to the biggest palace in India, saw a Ganesh museum (my favorite goddess),and then just walked. I didn't really know where I was going, but I walked and stumbled across these steelworkers who were hand hammering garage doors and other heavy steel items. It was so great. Usually I only see that stuff at the OC Fair!

In the city there are these huge man-made lakes and a big garden, which seem to make everything a little cleaner. I feel like I can actually take a full breath,which is refreshing. Yesterday we went to this funny little restaurant for dinner that had jazz playing and horse saddles for bar stools. Good times and very India. :)

So, today I almost died, twice. Once by a car,which rammed my arm with it's side mirror, and once by a herd of burros that a 10-year-old girl was herding. I would much prefer to be crushed by donkeys. Think of the Hi-larious headlines!!! Then, when I was walking in search of internet, a man was riding an elephant down the road. Just like it was a motorcycle. No one was jumping out of the way or trying extra hard to be quiet, in fact they were honking AT the elephant. Can't those things go all crazy and just start crushing people?!

So, as luck would have it,we are spending New Years Eve in the holiest of the cities we are visiting, which means no meat, eggs or alcohol! Usually I would be appalled, but I have only had one beer since I got here (I know, I am going to be a cheap date when I get home!) so I was not planning on getting plastered in India. Our tour leader is setting us up with his friend who is throwing a big party with a DJ and dinner and dancing. We'll be joining some other groups, so hopefully it won't be a bunch of older women and married or gay men (not that there's anything wrong with that!). So, all this is going to cost us about 500 rupees, which is about $10! When was the last time you spent only $10 on dinner on New Year?!

Ok, so now it's nap time for me. I am fighting an ear infection, which isn't actually too bad, since it makes the honking seem quieter. But,that's the only health problem as of now. As long as it stays out of my tummy, I am a happy camper!

Oh, and I know some people are freaking out about the whole war thing, but let me tell you, nothing is happening. How do I know? Well, everyone here WANTS war and they're extremely disappointed in the gov't for not doing anything. So, please, just relax, I am having a great time and have never felt unsafe.

That's all for now. Early train ride tomorrow morning, cross your fingers that I have a seat!

Tara: are you engaged yet?

Natalie: Indian BFFs ROCK!

xox
amy

Friday, December 26, 2008

december 26, 10:00 p.m. - Jaisalmer

Ok, so the camel ride was totally surreal. We were riding through the Thar desert and watching the sunset toward Pakistan (along with the fighter jets!) on Christmas day and I had a moment of, "holy crap, this is my life. This is AWESOME." I thought I had figured out how to post pictures, but not so much. But, I did join a group, they're called the Tally-ban or somesing like this (shout out to Stein's class! Yeah, I know, hell) I know the camel ride is totally touristy, but I have embraced my tourist-ness, it's not like I am ever going to pass as something different!

Tonight we had a home-cooked meal and entertainment from the family who owns the hotel. I had the best thing I have eaten so far, something called Aloo Gobi, it's cauliflower and potatos with some spices very tasty. The kid that was dancing showed us some slick moves which I am sure will get me a date back home, although, I am still holding out for my Indian (dot not feather) prince.

We did a secret S Christmas exchange, with a limit of 10 rupees (about 20 cents), so that was fun times. You can get such things as: candy bar, biscuits (cookies), marijuana satchel (only 9 rupees) , 5 packets of laundry soap and an elephant incense holder. I got biscuits and was quite pleased. I also had my first candy of the trip: a candy cane. My first candy! I usually have my first candy of the day by 9 am!

On that note. Many of my fellow travelers have already started getting sick. I have been lucky, but have been avoiding things like meat (vegetarian trip for me!), milk (including this apparently awesome drink called a lassi, not worth the runs for me), raw vegetables and fruits that are washed (I got pomegranates and oranges, I figure a peal protects them...so far so good!) and, of course, tap water and ice (it's hard to remember to use bottled water to brush your teeth. I am even filtering the bottled water through my super duper purifying bottle. Luckily, there are plenty of sodas, so I haven't gone through withdraws yet!

hmmmm what else. Oh yes, some of the funnest things are the lost-in-translation signs. The English versions are always just a little off... STD here! (which I am told has something to do with a phone)... Cock fireworks (a popular brand apparently, though they are known to explode prematurely BAZING!)... and my personal favorite Child beer (sadly, not beer made of children, but chiLLed beer).

Tomorrow we are on a bus at 5:30 am to head to Jodhpur, I am told we each have a seat, but we shall see. OH and I got lost again today trying to find this lake and was saved by the tourist police! I need to send them a thank you note.

In scarier news, turns out we were about 6 miles away from the Pakistani/India safe zone last night and we could hear artillery (spelling?) testing all night. If those two cannot get along and they ruin my trip I am going to be PISSED!

That's all for now. Hope everyone had a great Christmas. I miss you all, but mostly my Indy. There was a house dog at the hotel and I wanted it to come sleep with me!

Take care.
xoxo amy

Wednesday, December 24, 2008

dec 24, 8:42 p.m. - Jaisalamer

O.M.G. What a difference a few hours makes! After my last post we got some awesome news...our train ride, the 20-hour one, the one where we were supposed to have our own bed and our own blankets and pillows, yeah that train got canceled. Oh and, just to top it off, our tickets were now worthless. This is where it starts to get good.

We jump in to cabs to catch a train, which we don't have tickets for, two hours before it's supposed to take off. We are packed four into a cab and the bikes, people, tuk tuks, motorcycles and cars were now joined on the street by cows. Needless to say, it was an experience. The locals must have seen the terror in our eyes, as most of them laughed at us. An interesting note, the girls/women who ride on the back of motorcycles ride sidesaddle, in dresses. Sucks to be them!

Ok, so we get to the train station and wait around for about 40 minutes while our tour guide, NP, is allegedly getting us tickets. Instead, he comes back to tell us "Get your backpacks on and get ready for a fight." He tells us that he has 4 seats which is great, except there are 16 of us! We get broken into two groups and, luckily, I was with the group who was watching the luggage, so we had access to our jackets because this train ride did not include blankets, but it did include broken windows in the middle of the desert through the night. We had a bed until 2 a.m. and then we were forced to share "beds". Oh, and that bed, it consisted of me laying on the floor on top of people's luggage. I was sure I would get thrown off the train for not having a ticket, we were like a family of gypsies! All we kept saying was, at least we're not in Delhi. Someone described Delhi as "a mindnumbing assault on the senses" and I couldn't have thought of anything better. It was so overwhelming. So, basically, it was in the top (or bottom depending how you look at it) five worst nights of my entire life.

An interesting train observation - Indians do not try to be discreet about their bodily functions. They let them out loud and proud. Oh, and used my first squatter, not so bad, except it was located where the train cars connected so balance is key. Balance, of which I have none!

Then the sun came up. My feet thawed and I looked outside. It was amazing. We were in the Thar Desert and passed small villages and army bases and farmers, it was all beautiful and the air was superbly clean. I saw wild camles, llamas, gizelles, goats. All while hanging off the side of an Indian train. It was everything I wanted the trip to be.

Finally, after 20 hours of no sleep, no food and freezing toes, we arrived at Jaisalamer. It was all worth it. The cituy is this amazing fort carved out of yellow sandstone. Every building is intricate and you hardly even notice the cows (and cow poop) roaming the streets untouched (cows are considered holy in India...no beef! no leather.) We are staying in a mansion converted into a hotel and the room is to die for, it's bigger than my entire apt in San Fran! Beautiful tapestries covering the room from floor to ceiling. I went went three other girls to have chai at a restaurant on top of a building of a view that would make any penthouse owner jealous. We had another tasty dinner and got some great comments walking around with a group of girls - "I will share your bed with you," "you look like Spice Girls!" and "You buy me beer, I am very nice" the last one was accentuated with a finger point to the arm. I love when random people touch me!

So, it's Christmas Eve and I am in this beatiful mansion headed to bed to prepare for my camel safari and camping in the desert. Pretty sure this is one of the best Christmases of my life!

Oh, and mom, your airplane pillow didn't make it. A mysterious goop got on it when I used it on the train. I owe ya!

Hope you all have a great one. Take care.

-amy

Tuesday, December 23, 2008

december 23 - Delhi

december 23 - 2:23 pm

Ok, I think this will be easier than sending individual emails, so I am going to give it a shot as often as I can get to a computer.

Good news, I'm alive! I am in New Delhi after a very long trip. It is as crazy here as you can imagine. On my "taxi" ride from the airport I had a moment of "what the hell am I doing here?!" My airport transfer fell through and the "Tourist Police" found me wandering around the airport and helped me. No one here recognizes traffuc rules, not even driving on the right side of the road . You can't believe the tiny spots poeople fit their rickshaws, cars, bicycles and scooters. I saw a policeman hit a guy with a cane when his bike blocked traffic. And the horns, they never stop.

But, from there, thigs has vastly improved. My group is fun, people from all over the world and one man who in the middle of a yearlong trip around the world. A couple fun Australian girls, some canadians, brits, and my roommate is a German who barely speaks English. I feel sorry for her when she tries to understand our tourguide who has a very thick Indian accent. The hotel had hot water, which was more than welcome afte rtwo days of travelling and the bed was comfortable enough to allow me to sleep off my jetlag.

We went to Old Delhi today, I experienced the India metro (which is amazing and Southern California should be ashamed!) and the India buses (whiuch are no so fun). We walked through these tiny alleys that served as packed markets and visited temples and forts. The temples here almost make me want to pick up a religion. To see people bowing and mediatating at a spot where the temple martyr was beheaded, it's all very moving. Note to anyone thinking of coming out: don't be tricked by the kids who want you to take their picture. They expect "picture money". Oh, and wearing socks doesn't help, you have to have bare feet in the temples. That's pretty disgusting, but everything is marble, so it is pretty clean.

There are so many things to see and, sometimes unfortunately, smell. There are dogs everywhere! I have to keep myself from going and giving them kisses, rabies doesn't seem so fun. The food is to die for and super cheap. The colors of everything are so vibrant it's a stark contrast to the dirty street. Mom: you can't come here, people spit on the street.

You swear, as a tourist , that you're famous. People want to shakle your hand and take a picture of themselves with you. The staring is pretty disturbing at first, and I feel like a giant, but it's not so bad.

Tonight we are taking a 20-hour train ride to Jaislamer where I will be taking a camel safari and camping on Christmas night. I think it will rank pretty high up there on memorable Christmases! I am scared of the train ride, but I have pretty much been terrified since I have been here. I have never felt unsafe, though, and the armed guards and metal detectors at every entrance are actually a welcome sight.

Oh! And I already saw my first family of monkeys. Just chillen in the marketplace.

That's all for now. I will try to update again soon.

xoxo Amy